Dishola: Reviews by the Dish

I don't know what it was that got into my head. Why would I order a hamburger at El Arroyo, one of the few remaining businesses from Old Austin. While El Arroyo has changed dramatically since the hippy days in the seventies, their porch still straddles a large ditch--their namesake.

But truthfully, I have been trying to discover the best twenty hamburgers in Austin, and the chalkboard listing, "Cuban Burger" piqued my curiosity. So instead of a plate of enchiladas, I chose this off-the-menu special.

The waitress knew. She confidently smiled as she slipped the plate before me. What a thrill! Green chilies, cheese, and a wonderfully twice-cooked burger astonished my palette. Hamburgers this good are a rarity in Austin. Despite the assurances of the people working there, I was very certain that this must be a fluke.

Three weeks later (yesterday), I returned to El Arroyo. The Cuban Burger is still a special (word is, they're planning on adding to their next menu printing). And YES! it's still just as delicious.

So what is it? It's a large (6 oz?) evenly ground beef patty cooked medium rare on a griddle. They sandwich it between a hamburger bun (your choice of white, wheat, or jalapeno--choose the jalepeno!) with lots of cheese and green chilis. Pickled jalapenos can optionally be inserted for those wanting a bit more heat. Both versions work well. The dressed burger is then cut into four pie wedges and press-grilled for a few seconds, giving the bun a crisp sweetness and cooking the meat just a touch more.

The result is an A+ hamburger--yes, at a Tex-Mex restaurant. Congratulations, guys!